With age, our skin is put to the test : it loses hydration , firmness and the first wrinkles appear . Although we would all like to escape it, cellular aging is a perfectly natural phenomenon and is influenced by several factors such as our genetics , our lifestyle and even our diet .
From the age of 30, our stock of collagen and elastin , two essential constituents of our skin, notably responsible for its elasticity and hydration, begins to diminish . The first fine lines will then appear, giving way, over the years, to more pronounced wrinkles , a loss of radiance and pigment spots (or brown spots).
While there is no miracle solution to stop aging yet, it is entirely possible to slow it down and optimize it : this is what we call better-aging , or how to “ age well .” A good diet with a sufficient intake of proteins , vitamins and essential fatty acids , coupled with good hydration , both internal and external, will allow you to keep your youthful glow for longer.
The use of anti-aging active ingredients in cosmetics and nutricosmetics is also recommended to help prevent and limit the signs of aging by providing hydration , elasticity and protection to the skin . Often praised for their “miracle” properties, what are the best active ingredients to adopt for a truly effective anti-aging routine? We explain everything!
Hyaluronic acid
Naturally produced by our body, hyaluronic acid (HA) is involved in many functions, including maintaining the hydration of our skin while contributing to its elasticity . Its ability to hold up to 10,000 times its weight in water makes it one of the most recognized hydrating molecules .
As our stock of hyaluronic acid diminishes over time , it then becomes an essential ingredient in cosmetics and nutricosmetics for its moisturizing and rejuvenating effect. It exists in several sizes, depending on their molecular weight, each having interesting properties for our skin : in its pure form, HA is a high molecular weight molecule, it will then remain on the surface and create a protective and moisturizing film on the skin . Conversely, there are also low molecular weight ones, called “hyaluronic acid salts”, which will penetrate the skin for a plumping and moisturizing effect while reducing visible wrinkles .
For optimal effect , it is interesting to diversify the forms of HA: a cutaneous intake of 0.2 to 0.5% is preferred for effects on hydration and an anti-wrinkle action . In nutricosmetics, it would be equivalent to consuming between 120 and 240 mg of HA for equivalent effectiveness .
Retinoids
Derived from vitamin A , their anti-aging benefits on the skin have been proven many times. Their main action is based on the stimulation of collagen production which will help strengthen the skin barrier to provide elasticity and firmness while limiting the loss of collagen stock linked to age . Retinoids are also indicated in cases of hyperpigmentation since they will stimulate the renewal of skin cells and thus help to reduce visible spots on the skin .
Its use requires close monitoring because they are photosensitizing active ingredients. Their use must therefore be done exclusively in the evening to avoid damaging the skin barrier. At the same time, you can integrate it into your daily routine with a sunscreen and suitable moisturizers .
To limit possible side effects related to retinoids, plant-based alternatives have emerged, including bakuchiol , a molecule well-known for its healing properties on the skin . Its benefit? It is neither irritating nor photosensitizing and has no contraindications . Bakuchiol is therefore an anti-aging solution for all skin types , even sensitive.
Collagen
Do we still need to introduce it? An essential active ingredient in cosmetics , and more particularly in nutricosmetics in the form of powder or capsule supplements, it is part of the structure of our skin and is the source of its firmness and elasticity . Unfortunately, its stock is limited and its slow production means that it is not renewed quickly enough . The skin will then gradually relax, giving way to wrinkles and thinner skin .
In recent years, collagen has been widely studied, particularly for its effectiveness against the signs of aging . Contrary to what was said a few years ago, we do not need to consume 5 or even 10g of collagen per day to see results. Indeed, the effectiveness of collagen will depend on the type, its form (hydrolyzed or not) and its origin . Let's take the example of collagen from eggshell membrane which shows more than satisfactory results at lower doses (300 mg) , this is explained by the natural presence of collagen, elastin and hyaluronic acid in the membrane, forming a more effective synergy than if they had been added separately.
Vitamin C
When exposed to the sun, the skin is subjected to external attacks which can quickly cause wrinkles and brown spots to appear.
Thanks to its antioxidant properties , vitamin C stimulates the production of collagen and regulates the synthesis of melanin , responsible for pigment spots. It thus helps to reduce the depth of wrinkles , maintain hydration and firmness of the skin while limiting premature aging linked to sun exposure. In combination with vitamin E, its antioxidant effect is amplified.
Of course, vitamin C is very present in certain fruits and vegetables, which makes it a very interesting source and easy to integrate into one's diet. It is also possible to provide it in nutricosmetics, at a rate of 100 mg per day or in cosmetics, most often in the form of ascorbic acid , its pure form. There are also other forms of vitamin C but these do not equal the effectiveness of ascorbic acid. Despite its instability, it is the essential active ingredient for beautiful skin . Favor its use in the morning in addition to an SPF to avoid its oxidation .
AHAs
Lactic and glycolic acids are AHAs , or more simply, fruit acid derivatives. They are widely used for their benefits on melanin production and skin cell regeneration .
In fact, they accelerate skin exfoliation and cell renewal , thus promoting the production of collagen and hyaluronic acid for a beautiful, even complexion . You can integrate them into your daily care , morning and evening , at a rate of 10% to smooth and even out your skin .
